<p><b>INTRODUCED BY MONISHA RAJESH, award-winning author of <i>Around the World in 80 Trains</i></b><br><br><b>''If I were asked to enumerate the pleasures of travel, this would be one of the greatest among them - that so often and so unexpectedly you meet the best in human nature.''</b><br><br> Growing up in near-poverty and denied a formal education, Freya Stark had nurtured a fascination for the Middle East since reading <i>Arabian Nights</i> as a child. But it wasn''t until she was in her thirties that she was able to leave Europe. Boarding a cargo ship to Beirut in 1927, she went on to became one of her generation''s most intrepid explorers - her adventures would take her to remote areas in Turkey, the Middle East and Asia.<br><br><i>The Valleys of the Assassins </i>chronicles Stark''s treks into the wilderness of western Iran on the hunt for treasure and in an attempt to locate the long-fabled Assassins in Alumut, an ancient Persian sect. Entering Luristan on a mule, draped in na