<p><i>Look into the eyes of a jinn and you stare into the depths of your own soul...</i><br>Writer and film-maker Tahir Shah - in his 30s, married, with two small children - was beginning to wilt under brash, cramped, ennervating British city life. Flying in the face of friends'' advice, he longed to fulfil his dream of finding a place bursting with life, colour, history and romance - somewhere far removed from London - in which to raise a family. Childhood memories of holidaying with his parents, and of a grandfather he barely knew, led him to Morocco and to <i>''</i>Dar Khalifa'', a sprawling and, with the exception of its <i>jinns,</i> long-abandoned residence on the edge of Casablanca''s shanty town that, rumour had it, once belonged to the city''s Caliph. <br>And so begins Tahir Shah''s gloriously vivid, funny, affectionate and compelling account of how he and his family - aided, abetted and so often hindered by a wonderful cast of larger-than-life local characters: guardians, gar