<p>I have been a restaurant critic for over a decade, written reviews of well over 700 establishments, and if there is one thing I have learnt it is that people like reviews of bad restaurants. No, scratch that. They adore them, feast upon them like starving vultures who have spotted fly-blown carrion out in the bush.<br><br>They claim otherwise, of course. Readers like to present themselves as private arbiters of taste; as people interested in the good stuff. I''m sure they are. I''m sure they really do care whether the steak was served au point as requested or whether the souffl¿ad achieved a certain ineffable lightness. And yet, when I compare dinner to bodily fluids, the room to an S & M chamber in Neasden (only without the glamour or class), and the bill to an act of grand larceny, why, then the baying crowd is truly happy.<br><br>Don''t believe me? Then why, presented with the chance to buy this ebook filled with accounts of twenty restaurants - their chefs, their owners, their p