Barbarian Days av William Finnegan

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<p><b>Winner of the Pulitzer Price and William Hill Sports Book of the Year: <i>Barbarian Days </i>is a deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer looking for transcendence ''that recalls early James Salter'' (Geoff Dyer, <i>Observer</i>)</b><br><br>Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life.<br><br><i>New Yorker </i>writer William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. <i>Barbarian Days</i> is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world''s most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.<br><br><i>Barbarian Days</i> is an old-school adventure story,